The Route
The normal route is technically easy. The hard part is the height; it often gives people headaches and loss of hunger. Besides this, your body has to work with less oxygen than normal. This is why we are so careful with the acclimatization. The approach to Plaza de Mulas is a long distance of about 40 km. We are also used to making acclimatization trekking to Plaza Francia, the Base Camp of the Southern Wall. It takes us three days to get to Plaza de Mulas. After that, there are three more camps, before reaching to the summit. Our suggested program is set for two days of double equipment porting and security. When the last stage begins, we go higher and higher until we reach the summit. In the Aconcagua , sometimes the presence of a white wind difficults the ascent, this is why we use the security days, increasing the chances to reach the summit.
Daily Program
Day 1: Reception at the Airport. Transfer to the Hotel in MENDOZA City.
Our expedition starts in Mendoza, Argentina. At your arrival to the airport a representative of INKA Expediciones will be waiting for you. From the airport we drive to a comfortable hotel in the city. After you have rested from flying we will check the gear. Gear check is a critical step. Mendoza is the last chance to buy or rent gear, though it is not always easy to find it at last minute. A group meeting will follow gear check. We will introduce your guides and team members. Dinner will take place immediately after the meeting at "Parrillada" (typical Argentinean restaurant). We will have a chance to taste the famous "asado" (Argentinean barbecue) and delicious wines which Mendoza is so famous for (there are plenty of alternatives for non-drinkers and vegetarians in the group as well). Be prepared for a late dinner since dinnertime in Argentina begins at 9:00 PM!Accomodation: Hotel double basis –Meals: Not included
Day 2: Land transport from Mendoza to Penitentes Mountain Inn.
From the hotel, our van will take us to a little place near the route, called Penitentes (2.700 mts.). Here we organize mule loads, and spend the night. Accomodation: Hostel – Meals: B: Breakfast & D: Dinner
Day 3: Transfer from Penitentes to Puente de Inca. Start approaching trekking to Confluencia
After one night in Penitentes, we’ll drive to Puente de Inca, little town situated 6 kilometers far from Penitentes and then to Horcones Lake, where we get our first view of the mountain. We will get our permits checked at the Ranger station. Trekking up to Confluencia at 3500 mts, unload the mules, set up camp, drink some tea or matte (regional infusion served in a gourd and drank with a metal straw) and enjoy the dinner.Mules depart from Puente de Inca and you’ll have access to your load at Confluencia. So you should carry a daily backpack for the first days. Then the equipment will arrive to Plaza de Mulas.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 4: Acclimatization trekking to Plaza Francia (4.200 mt.)
We’ve included this day in order to acclimatize better, and give you more chances to summit. Climbing slowly and returning helps your body to get use to altitude. We’ll trek for about 5 hours until we arrive to Plaza Francia, base camp of the impressive Aconcagua south wall. From this place Aconcagua, the Stone Sentinel, appears more magnificent and intimidating than ever. We can see the entire South face. This is one of the nicest points of the expedition with a breathtaking first view of Aconcagua that you will never forget. Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
We’ve included this day in order to acclimatize better, and give you more chances to summit. Climbing slowly and returning helps your body to get use to altitude. We’ll trek for about 5 hours until we arrive to Plaza Francia, base camp of the impressive Aconcagua south wall. From this place Aconcagua, the Stone Sentinel, appears more magnificent and intimidating than ever. We can see the entire South face. This is one of the nicest points of the expedition with a breathtaking first view of Aconcagua that you will never forget. Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 5: Rest and acclimatization in Confluencia.
This day is for acclimatization. We will do a trekking around Confluencia. We will climb Cº San Valentín (3800mt)Accomodation: Tents-Meals: B,L, & D
Day 6: Approaching from Confluencia to Plaza de Mulas (Base camp, 4.250 mts.)
We will begin our second approaching day, trekking into Plaza de Mulas, base camp for our expedition. Early morning we start our walk across "Playa Ancha" (meaning wide beach) it is a deserted and always windy valley. We slowly gain altitude up the Horcones Superior Valley. By the end of our day's hike, after 8-9 hours walk and climb up "Cuesta Brava" (meaning rugged slope) a very steep path we reach Plaza de Mulas, our 4.250 mts. Base Camp. This day is important to our acclimatization. By the end of the day, most of us will feel the altitude.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 7-9: Rest and acclimatization.
After our arrival at Plaza de Mulas, we set up camp. We will spend a minimum of 3 nights in Base Camp. The first day in Base Camp is always a rest day and a good occasion to take a bath and explore the local terrain. We will divide expedition loads to carry to the high camps (community gear, fuel and food). We double carry to keep pack weight down and help ensure good acclimatization. After our rest in Base Camp we will do a carry to Camp I and Camp ll, reaching 5.400 mts. This is a challenging day where we gain 1.000 mts with a heavy load, up some easy terrain. We will spend the next day preparing for the climb, and acclimatizing to the higher altitude.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 10: Rest or move from base camp to Camp l at 4.900 mts.
The following morning could be a possible rest day or a definite move to Camp I, called "Plaza Canada", this will depend on how the group is doing, and on the weather. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to acclimatize and make the Summit.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 11: Move to Camp II.
Camp II, called "Nido de Condores" (meaning Condor nest), is located in a high pass at 5.400 mts. and provides spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 12: Carry equipment from Camp 2 to Camp 3. Return to sleep to Camp 3-
On this day we carry equipment to Camp III called Camp Colera (6000mts). After taking the equipment up we return to Camp II to sleep, giving to your body more chances to acclimatize.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 13: Ascent from Camp ll to Camp lll (6.000 mts).
Move to high camp, Camp Ill called “Colera”, located on the North Ridge, offers breathtaking scenes of many of the highest peaks of the Andes.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 14: Summit day. (6.962 mts.)
Summit day begins at 5:00 am. It is the most demanding and serious day of the expedition. We climb the North Ridge to Independencia Refuge at approximately 6.500 mts. normally the sun shines here for the first time that day. The next section is called "El Portezuelo del Viento" (meaning the Door of the Wind), where often there is a strong breeze even on calm days. From there, we will traverse the West Face and climb up into "La Canaleta", a 300 mts. couloirs which leads to the summit ridge. After the Canaleta, the Guanaco Ridge poses an easy traverse to the summit. This last section takes normally up to 1 hour. From the Guanaco Ridge you will be able to look directly down the 3.000 mts South Face of Aconcagua, face of rock, snow, and ice considered one of the greatest in the world!!On the top we have a spectacular 360º view. Also on the summit you will experience personal feelings and emotions that we can't describe for you. You should live it your self.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Summit day begins at 5:00 am. It is the most demanding and serious day of the expedition. We climb the North Ridge to Independencia Refuge at approximately 6.500 mts. normally the sun shines here for the first time that day. The next section is called "El Portezuelo del Viento" (meaning the Door of the Wind), where often there is a strong breeze even on calm days. From there, we will traverse the West Face and climb up into "La Canaleta", a 300 mts. couloirs which leads to the summit ridge. After the Canaleta, the Guanaco Ridge poses an easy traverse to the summit. This last section takes normally up to 1 hour. From the Guanaco Ridge you will be able to look directly down the 3.000 mts South Face of Aconcagua, face of rock, snow, and ice considered one of the greatest in the world!!On the top we have a spectacular 360º view. Also on the summit you will experience personal feelings and emotions that we can't describe for you. You should live it your self.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Days 15 and 16: Spare days in case of bad weather conditions.
We have three days to summit set aside on our itinerary. Acclimatization, rest and bad weather days. These extra days are built in to provide the best possible conditions for each participant to summit. We need a good window of weather to summit. After the climb, we return to high camp, get a well deserved rest, and the next day descend to Base CampAccomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
We have three days to summit set aside on our itinerary. Acclimatization, rest and bad weather days. These extra days are built in to provide the best possible conditions for each participant to summit. We need a good window of weather to summit. After the climb, we return to high camp, get a well deserved rest, and the next day descend to Base CampAccomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 17: Return to base camp.
Return from Camp III to base camp. We’ll enjoy a great dinner to celebrate the climb.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 18: Return from base camp to Penitentes and back to Mendoza
Return hike from base camp to Puente de Inca. Transfer to Penitentes. A van will be waiting for us to drive us to Mendoza, and we’ll have a celebration dinner.Accomodation: Hotel double basis –Meals: Not included
Day 19: Mendoza.
Breakfast at the hotel. End of services.
NOTE
The proposed itinerary can be changed due to weather conditions o other forced situations that put in risk the group security. The guides have the authority to change the programme according to their criteria. You can be sure the changes have two fundamental objectives. These are to maximize the security and the summit chances. And they are based on our guides knowledge and experience
The proposed itinerary can be changed due to weather conditions o other forced situations that put in risk the group security. The guides have the authority to change the programme according to their criteria. You can be sure the changes have two fundamental objectives. These are to maximize the security and the summit chances. And they are based on our guides knowledge and experience
Thanks for the info. I'm a novice at this and I think to start with aconcagua normal route would be an excellent idea. Igualemnte must confess that I'm afraid, so no compels me to reach the top but if you can go far.
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